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Nechvaloda E. The Kungur and the Ufa Tatar Women in Illustrations by G. F. Müller and Texts by I. G. Gmelin: Tatar Women’s Costumes of the Kama Region and the Urals in the Eighteenth Century

E. Nechvaloda
R. G. Kuzeev Institute for Ethnological Studies,
Ufa Federal Research Centre of the Russian Academy of Sciences
Ufa, Russian Federation
ORCID: 0000-0001-5267-4830
E-mail: pishi-nikonor@yandex.ru

 

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ABSTRACT. The article analyzes several illustrations to the publication by G. F. Müller, who served as the head of the Academic Department of the Great Northern Expedition. The paper focuses on three prints entitled The Kungur and Ufa Tatars. The commentaries on these images are not specific and lack a description of the Tatar clothing, which does not allow the use of these images as full-fledged historical and ethnographic sources. They did not give an idea of whether the costume complex was the same for all the Kungur and the Ufa Tatar women or whether there were local differences in their clothes, how they were expressed, which images were taken from the Kungur Tatars and which from the Ufa Tatars. The author compared G. F. Müller’s illustrations against the descriptions by I. G. Gmelin, another member of the Academic Department of the Great Northern Expedition. Gmelin’s commentaries helped to determine the costumes belonging to the “Kungur” (Sylven-Irensk) and the “Ufa” (Bisert) Tatars. The fact that the details of the images coincided with the description of the Ufa Tatar woman headdress, the close correspondence to the depicted headdress to other ethnographic sources, is a significant finding. This allows the author to conclude that the visual images under consideration are very accurate and reliable. The study not only offers accurate attribution to G. F. Miller’s images of Tatar women but also introduces them into scientific circulation in a new capacity.

 

KEYWORDS: G. F. Müller, I. G. Gmelin, Tatar clothing, traditional costume in the eighteenth-century graphics

 

DOI 10.31250/2618-8600-2024-2(24)-115-137
UDC 391(=512.145) (282.247.42)

 

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